Wow! I don't even know where to begin. First, perhaps an apology? I have been in Gaborone, Botswana now for 9 days but have minimal internet. As classes start and I get into a routine, hopefully I will be able to post more. I haven't tried uploading pictures yet but I have many to share from all of my adventures thus far!
Gaborone (pronounced Ha-bo-ro-nay) is a SPRAWLING city in the heart of Botswana. People (singular: Motswana, plural: Batswana) come from villages all over the country to make a living here. Though I have yet to travel to other urban landscapes in Africa, I feel like Gaborone is a good example of city life in Africa. My cab driver, Moraps, always tells me how boring Gaborone is. When I ask him what is exciting around Gaborone he always replies, "There is nothing to do. It is so boring. All any one does here is drink." Yes, alcohol abuse and drugs are a huge problem here. Yes, HIV effects the lives of every person in this city (infection rate at the University of Botswana is slightly higher than the national average- roughly 45%). Despite this, I have kept myself quite busy and have already learned so much about Botswana culture.
The first week we stayed at a pretty nice hotel called the Windsor Inn during orientation. They served us breakfast and dinner, which was pretty ordinary. There are 11 girls (the one boy dropped out. Perhaps he was intimidated by the notion of being surrounded by 11 girls for 4 months?) in my CIEE program that I have all come to know and love. 3 are in the public health program that I am in and the rest are just taking classes at the University of Botswana. Batsi is our program director, and really like a second father to me. He treats us like we are his daughters and basically makes our lives 100x more simple, less confusing, and safe than they would be without him. There are 70 international students total at UB from the US, all around Europe, Asia, and even some other countries in Africa..and those not in CIEE had a much more frustrating registration/orientation expereince. I can't thank Batsi enough for all the work he did and guidance he gives us!
Some of the highlights of orientation include:
- traditional dinner in a village right outside of Gaborone. Batswana delicacies we ate include ginger tea, mopane worms (read: crutchy catepillars...not the most appetizing, but supposedly very healthy), pap (cormeal that looks kind of like mashed potatoes that people eat here like we eat bread or noodles), various lentil dishes, stomped beef, spinach like vegetable that tastes kinda fishy/seaweedy and tons of chicken. We also learned traditional Batswana dances and spent lots of time talking and relaxing around the campfire. (Note: Africa is not always hot..it is the middle of winter here and the mornings and evenings it is as cold as 40-50 F! I definitely should have brought more pants!!)
- forged our own path and climbed Kgale Hill, the highest point in Gaborone. Spectacular views from the top.
- going to the various Malls for shopping and food. Found an ice cream place here which seems to be quite a rarity. People don't really eat dessert like I do back in the US so its taken some getting used to. Malls aren't like what they are in the US but they are basically where people hang out. Shops, grocery stores, fast food, restaurants, etc. Riverwalk is within 15 min. walk from UB but not that exciting. Game City is the biggest but closer to Kgale Hill. Main Mall has a lot of street vendors selling various African trinkets, jewlery, CDs, clothing. I'll definitely be stopping there before I leave!
- starting my home stay. I decided to live in a homestay rather than UB and after a week or so here, I'm pretty happy with my decision. I have a mom named Spinky and a 17 yr. old sister named Aty (short of Atang). We have a pretty modest house in Block 6 of Gaborone. Although I'm probably only a few kilometers from school, dut to traffic and the inefficiency of the combi system, it takes about an hour to get to school! Aty is very friendly, Spinky is more reserved. Aty tells me all her secrets/the dirt on the family. The TV is on almost 24/7. TV is the go-to entertainment. We don't have a dining room so we eat in the living room while watchin TV. There is only a bath, but unlike at the university, I have hot water so I am very thankful. They make pretty unhealthy food (lots of greasy meat and carbs) so eventually I'd like to make them healthier. In a landlocked country like Botswana veggies and fruit are a hot comodity and are much more expensive. Luckily, Batsi gives them money to pay for our food so when i work up the courage I can go shopping for them!
- learning the combi system. Combis (minibuses) are the main form of transportation that have a few designated stops but basically take you anywhere. They basically cram 4 in a row, 4 rows total and shuttle you from one place to a next. Its pretty difficult to know where you are going. Maps don't truly exist. There are street names but no one uses them. My first time riding on the combi alone I had to call my sister and have her tell the driver where to drop me off. Everyone laughed and joked in Setswana, but at least I wasn't going to be lost in Gaborone alone in the pitch dark!
- oh and classes! I'm taking two classes through the University- Parasitology and either African Religion in Botswana or African Philosophy. I also am in Setswana Language and Culture Practicum with just CIEE students, and my Public Health practicum and Public and Environmental Health in Botswana with 3 other CIEE girls. We start working at the clinic basically 7:30 am - 3 or 4 pm on Monday through Wednesday next week. We are working in Old Naledi, one of the "no go" places Batsi advised us against going to. He said however, we would be introduced to the community and thus we would be safe. We drove through Old Naledi on our tour our Gaborone and it really was how I expected most of Africa to be like. Delapitated shacks, people doing their hair on the street, everyone congregating outside. I'll give a much more thorough impression of Old Naledi later when I've actually been there longer. Although classes officially started on Monday I've had Parasitology once (the professor made an analogy of parasites being like American guests in Botswana homes...what a welcome!), Setswana once, and African Philosophy once. Professors don't show up or show up late. The classes are pretty rudimentary, but hey, its a nice break from second semester orgo at Georgetown. Perhaps it will get harder as the weeks go on.
Observations I have made thus far
- People don't really care about time. To me, efficiency is one of Botswana's biggest weaknesses. The transportation system is incredibly inefficient, professors don't come to class or arrive anywhere from 5-25 minutes late. If a cab driver says he will be there in 15 minutes, allot 30 minutes. Food takes forever to prepare. Time just isn't as important to people here. It drives me crazy at times but I'm slowly getting used to it.
- People don't really exercise here. Its pretty frustrating going from working out everyday to basically never. I went to the UB track and tried to run but got winded fairly quickly (we are also at a higher elevation here). Its not that safe to run around without id/phone and with an ipod especially farther from the university. Hopefully once i get into the swing of things I'll work out more.
- All the food here is the same. People here love their white carbs and meat. All the meat is on the bone. My vegetarian friends here are struggling, but finding their way. The cuisine is based more on survival that flavor and variety.
- Most people are either very genuinely friendly or want to sleep with you (especially if you are a white girl). Ive definitely honed my skills of warding off guys looking for numbers or trying to get you to go back their room with you. Guys here are so forward about what they want and its pretty acceptable in the culture. Thus its pretty hard to make friends with Batswana guys.
I have so much more to say, but not much time. I guess i will write more in the following days. I miss everyone back home. My family and friends in NJ, all my friends traveling the globe like me, my friends in Washington DC, and my family back in Wisconsin. Hopefully next time there will be pictures to accompany my post. For now know I am doing very well and am enjoying my experience immensely. Its a huge change of pace from the US but I'm loving it. Still can't believe I'm in Africa but I've met so many great people through my program as well as locals. Go Siame for now!
Hi Meghan,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your rather long introductory posting. I found it quite interesting. I hope you'll be able to post pictures eventually. I can't wait to see what the area looks like where you are studying.
I just want you to know how absolutely proud I am of you and can't wait to see you again after you return home. Take care, be careful and study hard!
I love you lots.
John
UB had hot water according to the kids around when I was there... They lose it? They also had wireless and regular meals... Home stay is pretty gutsy. You going to home stay the entire time?
ReplyDeleteYour cabbie is definitely right, the biggest thing to do in Gabs is drink, but I disagree with your assessment of River Walk, had a lot of fun there... Linga Longa was a great place to hang out. Dunno how often stuff turns over there but I'd assume it's still around.