Thursday, October 28, 2010

Welcome to Botswana!

Well...what i thought would never happen to careful, on-guard me in fact HAPPENED. Yesterday I had my wallet stolen at Bus Rank. I have grown to love the walk between bus rank and UB every morning as the sun is starting to rise and I can reflect and listen to my music. I am always SUPER careful though on the bridge crossing-- a haven and regular hangout for thief gangs. I speed walk across the bridge holding my backpack tightly, keep my phone and key in my pockets, and don't take my ipod out until I successfully cross. Well-- apparently thats not good enough because some how these tricky thieves managed to locate my hidden zippers, open my bag, and sneak the wallet out of my backpack pocket without me or any of the people around me noticing. SOOSOOO frustrating. Its not that I care about the 100 pula i lost...more the credit cards, debit cards, IDs etc. At least my passport wasn't in there... I'd be in Botswana for ETERNITY :) These thieves here are crazy..they work together, distract you because literally its their job. Its sad that it happened but I guess now i've truly "experienced" Gaborone

On a separate note the last few weeks I have stayed in Gaborone. Life has become pretty rhythmic and consistent but I've definitely had some exciting highlights:
- going to a tomb stone unveiling in Mochudi at 5 am with Alicia and our host moms and then proceeding to feed dinner food to hundreds of Batswana (read: MEAT, PORRIDGE, SAMP, etc.) at 9 am
-crazy awesome thunderstorms. About a week ago I experienced the loudest thunder i have ever heard in my life. Pretty unreal.
- its starting to get dark a little later so i have finally started working out. I've gotten past the initial unable-to-breath-the-air-is-so-bad stage and have really started enjoying running around my block. Only really got lost once when it started getting a bit too dark! I'm going spinning tomorrow at 5:15 am with my Setswana teacher, Ntati. Should be a fun time!
- started working at the Women's Health clinic at Princess Marina Hospital which is part of the UPenn-Botswana partnership. Much more to come about this incredible opportunity, but I am starting a clinical research project relating HIV and the progression of cervical cancer which probably last me far into when i get back stateside

thats about it for now..More to come in the future. Hopefully I will have more travels to write about after finals Only two weeks of school left :)

Monday, October 25, 2010

SHORT VAC 2010: South Africa

So I have come to the conclusion that my blog posts tend to drag on a bit too much. While Krisstina and I were hiking the Drakensburg Mountains, we came up with the concept of the 20 second clip—the most telling, exciting or interesting 20 seconds of our day—as a way to tell the story of our trip. It may not include everything, but it gets the major points across.

Synopsis: Krisstina and I decided to take an adventure from mountains to coast for our mid semester break. Its interesting how everyone broke up and did there own thing—though a lot of us CIEE folk actually did end up in South Africa. Anyways, Krisstina and I first three days (4 nights) at Amphitheater Backpackers in the Northern Drakensburg Mountains of Kwazulu Natal, South Africa. We were about a 3 1/2 hour drive (read: cramped combi-style minibus with our luggage on our laps and hitch hike) Southeast from Johannesburg and about 30 minutes from Ladysmith (a bit more lively than its Midwestern counterpart…haha) Amphitheater Backpackers, is truly a gem of the Drakensburg. Situated basically in the middle of nowhere, the unbeatable scenery of Cathedral peak and the vast Amphitheater, the crazy/hospitable backpacker staff, and the very spacious and comfortable accommodation made for an unforgettable experience. We hiked the Crack and Little Berg alone in Royal Natal National Park the first day and we conquered the 3121 m. high amphitheater and Tugela Falls (the second highest waterfall in the world! ) on the second day. I went to Lesotho to visit a school, take a small hike, and learn about the tallest country in Africa’s fascinating culture. We were sad to leave our new friends and home, but Krisstina and I headed down to Durbin’s Indian coast the next day. Durbin was a bit disappointing, but at least we stayed in the mountains an extra day. We enjoyed the warm yet far too windy beach and dined on delectable Indian cuisine that night. Krisstina headed home to Gabs the next day and I flew out to Cape Town to see my friend Zach from Georgetown and the sites there. Cape Town was quite a taste of western luxury with all the food and amenities. I got to meet all of Zach’s friends, watch the sunset at Camp’s Bay, learned about Apartheid at the District 6 museum, saw the penguins at Simon’s Town, climbed Table Mountain and had some of the BEST FOOD I’ve had in months. Overall, an unforgettable journey with lots of action and variety. If this little synopsis didn’t bore you to death, I hope you will enjoy my “20 second clips” from each day!! Some days I couldn't decide on one so I wrote down multiple…hope it gives justice to the variety of experiences I had.

25/9/2010 (day/month/year…it actually makes much more sense this way anyways!!!)


A. While I guard our bags in a stuffy combi to Pietermartzberg, Krisstina runs around frantically trying to find a combi that will get us closer to our Ampitheater backpackers destination. She fights through crowds of people forcing soda cans, nail clippers, and chips down her throat, being proposed to by creepy guys the entire way. Fortunately, we were able to leave the Johannesburg bus rank without being mugged!

B. The clock strikes 6 pm, and entirety of Kwazulu-Natal shuts down. No cabs, public transportation to be found. Krisstina and I stand wearily at the Shell Station in Harrismith, praying that we will be able to hitch a ride with a sober soul. Two very racist Afrikaaners are our saviors and offer to give us a ride in their pickup truck to Amphitheater Backpackers

C. After an arduous journey, we arrive at Amphitheater Backpackers to be greeted by our very inebriated hostel manager Adrian, a wild party, and chili-infused tequila shots on the house. The journey continues when we find our dorm room filled with snoring middle aged Afrikaaners headed on a 5 day hike in the morning.

26/9/2010

A. After trailblazing up the “NO ENTRY: MUDSLIDE” path through thorny bush and slippery paths, Krisstina and I find a beautiful cove overlooking the Drakensburg mountain landscape and the rolling valleys dotted by cattle and homes.

B. Summiting Little Berg some 1000 m. in the air to enjoy the spectacular views and our much deserve Clif Bars in the practically unbearable wind. We sang R. Kelly’s Sign of Victory and Ain’t No Mountain High Enough the whole way down.

27/9/2010

A. Trudging through the cold mist in ponchos, hats and gloves along the side of the cliff with only our guide Sim as an indication we were going the right way. We were unable to even see 10 meters in front of us.

B. After a grueling practically vertical 250 meter rock climb up to the top, we reached our destination—the Summit of Eastern Buttress (3121 m.) at around lunch time. We relished in the challenge we had just accomplished and the unbeatable views from the top of the Amphitheater of the surrounding Drakensburg ranges. Clouds crashed into the mountains like waves on a rocky beach.

28/9/2010

A. Playing football with a ball made from wrapped up plastic balls with smiley Basotho boys at Matikadisu Primary School, our first destination in the mystical country above the clouds, Lesotho. Matikadisu Primary school is a community-run school for preschool to eighth grade. The school is funded almost entirely by Amp and the money we pay to go on the Lesotho excursion!

B. Hanging out at the bar with our Adrian and his daughter, Devon the bartender, and Jonah. Devon entertained us with crazy cocktail concoctions, magic tricks while Adrian “wooed” us with his politically incorrect, sexual jokes. Man do I miss these crazies!!

29/9/2010

A. Three-hour combi ride from hell from Ladysmith to Durban, with the only thing carrying me through the discomfort (heat, crowded, smelly) was the thought of going to the beach.

B. Singing at the top of my lungs as I took a walk along Durban’s beautifully crystal cerulean blue Indian Ocean as the wind whipped sand around my feet. Krisstina bathed in the sun, but I couldn’t bear the sand blowing uncontrollably over my body so I took a walk to reflect over the awesomeness that had been the last few days.

30/9/2010

A. Just a few hours after arriving in the westernized getaway of Cape Town, Zach, my friend from Georgetown who is studying at Univ. of Cape Town, was robbed on Long Street! I kept walking since I was annoyed by how “naïve” Zach was to the art of street begging. Little did I know that the man was forcing him to give up his possessions at knifepoint. Luckily Zach didn’t show the man his iPhone or huge wad of Rand he had just taken out from the ATM—he ended up only losing his local cell phone

B. Eating SCRUMPIOUS, CREAMY, FLAVORFUL, CHUNKY Italian Gelato while watching the sunset over the bay at Camp’s Bay—an affluent, almost exclusively white part of the greater Cape Town area . It was awesome just relaxing and catching up on good ‘ol times and the latest gossip from Georgetown and sharing our craziest stories from Africa.

01/10/2010

A. With a few months in Africa under my belt, I took to the minibus/combi system and explored a little bit of Cape Town on my own when Zach went to class at UCT. Went to the District 6 Museum in downtown Cape Town and learned about Apartheid and forced evacuations of places like District 6. Its crazy how recent Apartheid was, you can definitely see remnants of it in the segregation and subtle racism in everyday life.

B. After a slightly anticlimactic penguin-viewing in Simon’s Town, Zach and I had to RUSH back to Mowbray so he could attend the Liesbeeck Gardens formal at 5:30 pm. The train was unbearably slow and wasn’t running from Simon’s Town, so in a desperate effort when almost all hope was lost, we basically rented out an entire combi/minibus to take us straight to Liesbeeck Gardens for a whopping 250 Rand! Money in Cape Town is sure not like what it is in Bots. We made it just in the knick of time, despite our fears!

02/10/2010

A. Went with Zach + friends for a taste of home (probably even better) at Old Biscuit Market. It was literally a culinary heaven on earth. Crepes, artisan French pizzas, make your own organic sandwiches, cheeses spreads, vegan lentil/falafel/hummus station, thai, paellas, fresh fruit smoothies, delectable pastries—you name it, it was there! Just thinking about it again makes my mouth water. Got to try tons of samples before getting a breakfast sandwich with eggs, chicken, avo, cheese, tomatoes, lettce, and TO-DIE-FOR rich garlic sauce and a fresh mixed berry smoothie. Also had a sandwich made for lunch(which I ended up eating on the bus on the way home the next day) and got some stuff to bring back to pap and tough-meat infested Gabs!

B. Taking pictures and gaping at the incredible views of Cape Town, the ocean, Lions Head, and the surrounding mountains after successfully climbing Capet Town’s infamous Table Mountain with Zach and his friends.

03/10/2010

A. Reuniting with my Gabs CIEE friends and hearing about everyone’s crazy spring breaks at the Joburg Airport before an ungodly long journey back to Gabs. People were right when they say you can’t trust Intercape—our bus broke down 3 or 4 times and we didn’t get back home to 10 pm.

It was an amazing trip, and I would recommend it to anyone and everyone who loves adventure. I’m super sad I am not traveling anymore…it has undoubtedly been one of the highlights of my study abroad experience!

Friday, October 22, 2010

Photos from Cape Town!

1. Gorgeous views of Cape Town on top of Table Mountain!
2. EMTs Meghan and Zach on top of Table Mountain after a long hike up
3. District 6 Museum-- a museum dedicated to District 6, an area of Cape Town where Blacks were removed from during the Apartheid era
4. Beautiful coastline near Camp's Bay, Cape Town with the 12 Apostles in the background
5. Cape Town Harbor with Table Mountain in the background




Photos from Lesotho and Durbin, South Africa

1. Bunny Chow, an Indian delicacy in Durban
2. The gorgeous Indian Ocean!
3. Visiting women for traditional beer in Lesotho, the highest country in the world
4. Playing with a child in Lesotho
5. Taking a hike through the sprawling hills of Lesotho




Photos from Drakensburg Mountains: Life Above the Clouds










Thursday, October 21, 2010

A typical Thursday morning in the life of me!

5:32 am: Alarm rings and I roll out of bed to take a bath. After wiping away the residual dirt in the tub, I typically do squats and lunges as my as the bath tub slowly fills up. However, this morning there was little/no running water. So I forwent the bath and decided to just get dressed and ready for school. Typical breakfast consists of instant oatmeal or yogurt and granola. But seeing as there were no fruit or yogurt in the house, I decided to get phaphatas (delicious english muffin like bread) from a vendor at UB

6:20 am: Out of the house and off to the main road to catch the Block 6, Mogodisthane 8 combi. Excited to see a nearly completely empty one, I hope in the front. We drive slowly down the road, honking the whole way. We stop every block to pick up a Motswana. I don't think i've ever been on a combi with a white person (unless it was one of my friends). We wait in traffic lines at roundabouts for about 20 minutes before going around the entire circle to come back to the same street (just different direction)!

7:00 am: Reach Main Station/Bus Rank where I got my phone stolen a week or two back. Now i'm super careful about how I carry my backpack when I walk over the bridge. Vendors selling their fat cakes, air time, sweets, and brown bananas. I forgo a second combi ride to UB and take the walk through the Parlimentary and Ministry buildings, Main Mall, and past Princess Marina Hospital. Mornings are always cool as the sun is still rising, so its always a pleasant walk. I listen to shuffle on my ipod, still getting super excited when "wavin' flag" comes on. Race past the slow-walking Batswana. My Setswana teacher even admitted that you can pick a Batswana out of a crowd anywhere by how incredibly slow they walk. I wave to my CD vendor at the main mall and continue on past hackling men.

7:40 am: Finally reach the science block at UB and set up shop on my computer for 30 minutes (the professor is rarely on time) before Parasitology class. Talk to friends on gchat who are still up in the US--hard at work in the LL or procrastinating on the internet ;)

8:10 am: Parasitology class starts. We discuss all great things about bugs and parasites. We always go through the origin of at least 5 words. For instance today we learned about Cordylobia anthropophaga. Cordy is like Cardi-- which means heart. When you are infected with the maggots of this fly, it makes you nervous and your heart beats. Lobia is like labia like labia majora. Quite the stretches sometimes, but hey-- it can be pretty entertaining. Dr. Allotey tells us about how the article written about him when he was in Austrailian for an entomology conference. He made the university proud as a "distinguished." He has to show us some pictures of the parasites but can't find them on the projector. I see a document that says "pictures of flies" and show him. He is delighted and tells the class "Clap for Meghan. Great Job. I will have Chocolate for you" He continues to tell us about a fly that is not attracted to REYnann (Ranann, a friend of mind) but the rest of the class because of their dark skin. He calls on Kelsey, calling her Kelly. Kelsey corrects Dr. Allotey but he just laughs and says, oh well the Y in Kelly is just like Allotey so you will need it when we get married. Just fabulous. I'm sure Kelsey will be marrying our pastor/distinguished professor Dr. Allotey soon!

9 am: Get in line to drop off my backpack before entering the library. Can't bring water/food/backpack/anything into the library. Lucked out because it was so early so the line wasn't bad. In the afternoons you can wait as long as 30 minutes. And they always complain our backpacks are too heavy. Maybe if they let us carry them in, they wouldn't have to worry about it!

9:05 am: Head into the air conditioned, Special Documents room on the ground floor of the library, arguably the only quiet place to be found here. Try to get on the internet but half of the websites (facebook, any "entertainment" websites) are blocked. I guess I will just stick to gmail, blogging, and my homework! Hopefully they won't yell at me for using a pen or sitting on the chair the wrong way!




Friday, October 15, 2010

Pictures from Vic Falls










































1. On the walk back from Devil's Pool on the Zambia side as the sun set
2. Zambia side of the falls
3. Zimbabwe side of the falls, mist in the background
4. mid free-fall!
5. Preparing to bungi jump off the victoria falls bridge

Thursday, October 14, 2010

On the 78th Day, Modimo said "Let there be Rain"...

FINALLY!

On my 78th Day in Botswana, Modimo (God in Setswana) said Let there be rain...and rain it did! I was squished like a sardine in the back of a crowded Mogodisthane Route 10 combi last night, as per every weekday evening, when we passed by Pula Spar and the rain started to come down. It wasn't anything to dramatic, but it was exciting nonetheless. It rained again this morning for about 15 minutes. Not sure what this rainy season is going to entail..but its a nice break from the 90 degree heat I've gotten used to the past two weeks.

This week has been pretty ordinary in terms of life in Gabs goes. Writing papers, going to the clinic, taking the combi, etc. However, on Wednesday Kelsey, Alicia, and I had the "pleasure" oh accompanying our Environmental Health professor to the Gaborone Chicken Slaughterhouse. Thats right folks, where they somewhat manually kill, defeather, "clean", and package 6000 chickens per day. Only the pictures can do this visit justice. Although Kelsey was lovin it, Alicia and the vegetarian in me weren't to thrilled. Clad in our white rainboots and lab coats, We eased our way into the tour, going from the end of the process to the beginning. It didn't really get too disgusting until we went in the room where intestines will pouring through shoots from the previous room. As Dr. Letsholo explained, there is no waste when it comes to chickens. They eat it all-- feet, heads, intestines, hearts, even lungs! The worst part by far was when we went outside and saw the blood-stained chickens hanging by their feet on a conveyor belt. Some were writhing around not quite dead yet. Appparently it takes some chickens longer than others to die after having their neck manually slit by a huge machete. Fun times!! My professor got too close and got blood splattered all over his clothing...lovely!

I'm hoping to go back to Mochudi this weekend to visit my host family and pick up my skirt. The problem is I don't have my mom's phone number because my phone got stolen. I don't think I mentioned that little detail earlier either...On the way to the ARV (antiretroviral treatment) clinic one morning, someone at the station opened up my bag and took my phone. Its only 200 pula down the drain...definitely could have been worse! When I told the social worker at the clinic about my story, she simply replied, "Welcome to Botswana!"

Look out for my next post about my vacation to South Africa!!! It should be a fun one :)

Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls...

At last, the epic tale of Victoria Falls. Its been rough week being back in Gabs from the perpetual vacation that was September. My phone was stolen on Tuesday, temperatures have reached 100 degrees farenheit (with air condition few and far between), and I’ve had frustrating exam experiences in both Parasitology and Traditional Religion in Botswana. But hey, those kind of bumps in the road build character, right?

Anyways, I’ll do my best to recount five of the best days of my life. Flash back to Tuesday, September 14th. UB Professors had finally decide to strike, and chaos abrupted around UB. There was really no physical violence or demonstrating yet, but just a lot of buzz about how the week was going to proceed. Batsi told us CIEE girls he wasn’t sure how long the strike would last but leaders expected until about Friday. Leaving any worry behind, my friends and I packed our bags and headed off to Victoria Falls for the weekend. The mad rush to inform our professors, discuss due dates for papers, and pack for the week flew by, and next thing I knew I was on the bus with Kelsey, Christina, Alicia, and Ranann to Francistown--. We stayed the night in a sketchy little inn and got up literally before the crack of dawn (read: 4 am) to catch out 6 am, 6 hour bus to Kasane. The Francistown bus rank was totally abandoned when we got there at 5:05 am. No obnoxious vendors stuffing Hungry Lion down our throat. As the sun began to rise, the bus rank gradually came to life and we watched big bus after big bus come for Maun, Gabs, etc. Not until around 8 am did our Kasane “bus” show up. We weren’t too thrilled we would be spending the next 6 hours cramped in that glorified combi, but at least it was progress! Things took a turn for the worse when the bus ran out of gas an hour into the drive. We ended up peeing in the buses and sitting on the side of the road for about 2 hours waiting for the driver to collect gas at the nearest gas station. People’s spirits were starting to wane, but I was still pretty stoked---we were on a spontaneous trip to VICTORIA FALLS! In less than 24 hours, I would be bungi jumping off the third highest bridge into the Zambezi River. The thought even now makes me nervous and giddy! The bus conveniently stopped at the Zambia/Botswana border before heading to Kasane so we got off early. To get into Zambia, you have to take a ferry across the Zambezi River. That border point is actually the crossroads of Namibia (Caprivi Strip), Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Its pretty cool to think I was standing literally at the edge of four countries…

The drive to Livingstone really put Botswana in perspective…you can’t even compare the poverty in Zambia to the worst I’ve seen in Botswana. We passed by town after town of shantytowns—entire villages made of corrugated metal and trash. We saw elephants, monkeys, and even giraffes in our drive to our hostel—now THIS is Africa. We also passed by the Royal Livingstone and Zambezi Sun where my parents were going to be staying- basically the definition of luxury safari resort. Livingstone backapackers was no Royal Livingstone, but I absolutely loved the set up! For just $12 a night, we had dorm bedrooms, access to a kitchen, pool, outdoor bar and lounge area, showers, and all the information we could want about Victoria Falls. In the end, we ended up deciding to do the Bungi Adrenaline Package and the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls on Thursday, the Whitewater Rafting on the Zambezi on Friday, and shopping and the Zambia side of Vic Falls on Saturday. What a plan!! We were pretty stoked…but even more stoked to get some food in our bellies. After taking out a mere 1.2 million kwatcha for our excursions and accommodation (equivalent of about $240) from the atm, We headed over to Olgas, a restaurant benefiting disadvantaged youth in Livingtone, for absolutely incredible Italian food. Call me crazy, but my pesto vegetarian pasta absolutely hit the spot. As I went to sleep that night, all I could think about was looking over a bridge into a bottomless pit…tomorrow was going to be an interesting day.

Wednesday was officially D-Day (death day?!) My stomach was literally in knots when we woke up the next morning and headed over to Vic Falls. We were joined by Jonny and Gus, two guys from the UK (Gus was originally from Lusaka, Zambia) who were also stupid enough to commit to jumping off a bridge over the Zambezi River…except they had drank 5 more beers each that morning so they were only slightly less weary than me. After watching other people take the jump (gorge swing, bungi jump, etc. we at last faced our fears. Kelsey, Christina and I headed over to the “slide” component of the adrenalin package—a zipline across the Zambezi River gorge. Baby steps. Alicia and Ranann went for the gold and did a tandem Gorge Swing. Watching them do the Gorge Swing kinda made my stomach drop, but my confidence was built by the “tamer” zipline. After the intial shock that I was attached to a cord hundreds of feet over the Zambezi, I began to enjoy the unbeatable views. When we got over to the bridge to do our Gorge Swing, the staff told us we needed to do the bungi jump first since there was such a long line for the Gorge Swing. I remember laughing nervously in disbelief accepting my very scary fate. As I watched Christina hop over to the edge and nearly chicken out of jumping, I got even more nervous. Kelsey took the challenge like a champ. When it came to my turn, I remember stepping up to the bridges edge and looking down to my 111 meter fate, my heart now racing a million beats a minute. I wasn’t so scared that the bungi cord was going to break as much as I was scared I would break my neck from the whiplash or have a heart attack. Arms straight out in the air and 5-4-3-2-1 Bungi! The sensation of free fall is like nothing I have ever experienced. I didn’t start screaming until after the drop—the shock of free fall left me completely speechless. It all happened way to fast as next thing I knew I felt the jolt upwards when the bungi cord bounced upwards. The bouncing up and down after the initial fall was to me was one of the scarier parts. But boy, in the few moments when I did open my eyes, were the views gorgeous. When I got back up on semi-solid ground (the bridge) and saw my friends, I actually started balling. I couldn’t control the whirlwind of emotions had overcome me during the experience. Watching people do the bungi after me was actually more terrifying than before I took the jump. The Gorge Swing ended up being scarier than the bungi. Because you are attached to the rope by the torso and you jump off feet first, the sensation better mimics what I would assume it would be like if you fell off a cliff or building. I came away from the morning feeling accomplished and fearless and excited to break the news to my parents later that night (NOTE: my parents had planned on coming to Vic Falls long before I ever contemplated in going. Vic Falls happened to be the first stop on their Africa Adventure and conveniently timed right when our teachers struck!)

After watching our movies and getting some food in our stomachs, we headed over to Zimbabwe to see the falls from that side. The visa and entrance fee weren’t cheap but the views were spectacular. We walked through the idyllic tropical rainforest to panoramic views of the kilometer-long falls. We took far too many pictures and ran out of the park before we got locked in when it closed.

We stopped by the Royal Livingstone to see if my parents were there yet and after a slightly confusing conversation with the conceierge, I spotted my mom and dad in the distance. It was so great too see them after such a long time. The homesickness I feel in Botswana is an entirely different animal from any kind of homesickness I feel at Georgetown. My friends went back to Livingstone backpackers to wash up before dinner while I watched the sunset, Zambezi Sunrise cocktail in hand, with my parents. Dinner was pretty ordinary and service was ridiculously slow, but hey, TIA. I said my goodbyes to my parents, knowing I would be seeing them shortly in my home city Gaborone in only a few days.

Early morning wakeup in Zambia for another adrenaline-filled day! We hoped on the safari car with some of our friends from bungi jumpi. After a delicious egg and toast breakfast and safety instructions from Baby Face, we got our helmets and life vests on and headed down to the river. The climb down the gorge in itself was a beautiful journey. Alicia, Christina, Kelsey, and I (Ranann isn’t a big fan of water and opted for the elephant ride + helicopter tour of the Falls today) were accompanied in our raft by an emergency medicine doctor from Miami who was on his last day of touring Zambia and our AWESOME guide Vinnie! Vinnie was, to put it honestly, THE MAN. He made us feel super safe and he was so much fun to be around. The Zambezi River boasts some of the best grade 5 (highest is grade 6) rapids in the world. We did the half day excursion which, according to the guides, was better anyways because after Rapid 11 they get a bit boring and repetitive. None of us were very experienced in rafting but we had an amazing and incredibly successful time anyways. I am proud to say that we are they only raft that did NOT tip over in a rapids. We did have one minor mishap—Alicia fell out when we least expected it in one of the smaller rapids—but other than that, we were golden! I would HIGHLY recommend doing the rafting trip. I different kind of adrenaline rush but equally as exciting. I bought awesome pictures from the day, but even those don’t do justice to the strength of the rapids and the excitement of paddling through each one. Once we were done, we had to walk back up the Gorge. The 30 minute log ladder climb up was strenuous but enjoyable nonetheless. Lets just say, we were pretty happy to reach the cold waters and juices at the truck once we reached the top.

After enjoying lunch with our river guides we headed back to Livingstone to clean up before the BOOZE CRUISE!! All our friends from the bungi jumping and rafting came along, making the cruise even more exciting. Open bar and appetizers for two hour as the sunset on the Zambezi River. Couldn’t have asked for a better way to relax after our hard day of rafting in the sun. Some of us were definitely seeing the hippos after the double cane shots and Zambezi Sunrise drinks—but hey, TIA! We brought all of our friends from the cruise back to Livingstone Backpackers to continue the craziness at the bar and pool. Fun times were had by all….

After a late start on Saturday, we headed into Livingstone to do some souvenir shopping. My bargaining skills were a bit rusty since my Asian market experiences, but I did my best to barter down the prices. So much to choose from but we all ended up with gifts, paintings, jewelry a plenty to take back to Gabs. After much convincing by our backpackers friends in Livingstone, Kelsey, Christina, and I decided to face our fears and head over to Devils Pool on the Zambia side of the Falls. Although the Zambia side isn’t as spectacular as the Zimbabwe side, we were able to actually go on TOP of the falls. We heard tales of people being washed over the Falls when they were in Devils Pool when strong currents came, but locals said this wouldn’t be an issue at this time of year (since it hadn’t rain in the region for months). We took their advice found a guide and started our trek across the slippery rocks and logs to Angels Pool. Apparently its only called Devil’s Pool during the rainy season when it is ACTUALLY hazardous. After maneuvering along for about an hour, we finally reached the pool. Angel’s Pool is literally the top of Victoria Falls. We took pictures pretending to fall over the edge and enjoyed swimming in the warm pool before heading back. Its pretty crazy to think we were RIGHT there—another experience you can’t miss out on at Vic Falls!

We met up will everyone else back at Livingstone Backpackers, including Timo and Nadja who had arrived to Vic Falls a day later than us. In true American style, we found the only Mexican restaurant in Zambia, and feasted on delicious enchiladas and burritos! It’s crazy that we were already leaving tomorrow. The rest of the Gabs gang went to bed, but Kelsey and I stayed up chatting with Hugo, Rupurt, Gus, and Johnny—our buds at Livingstone backpackers. We will surely miss their company!

After breakfast at Olgas, we were off to the Zambia/Botswana border. We reached Kasane in good time and flew back to Gabs, compliments to Air Botswana. And man was it nice spending the extra $60 to forego the stuffy 10+ hour bus ride through the heat to get back to Gabs. I was drained from the whirlwind of a trip and sad to be leaving such an awesome place, but you can’t be on vacation forever, right!? Well…the funny thing is that that next weekend I’d be headed down to South Africa for spring break!


PS- once I get a better internet connection (aka Linga Longa tomorrow or this weekend) I will post some pictures from bungi jumping, whitewater rafting, and the Falls!

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Village Homestay in Mochudi

Dumela!! Sorry I have been so incredibly MIA the past 3-4 weeks. Between the village homestay, a spontaneous trip to Victoria Falls, mom and dad visiting and spring break in South Africa my internet connection and free time has been slim to none. Luckily I wrote down most of my thoughts as I went to share with you all. It might take me a while to get through everything, so bare with me!!

From the clinic and home-based care work I did to my warm and friendly family, I loved, loved, loved my entire village home stay experience! The 11 of us CIEE girls were placed with families in a village about an hour away from Gaborone called Mochudi. The winding, hilly roads of Mochudi were a needed change from the flat plains of Gabs. It was nice getting away from the busy streets of Gabs and experiencing the "simple life" of the village. The people in Mochudi were all incredibly hospitable and welcoming. They aren't as used to seeing white girls like me so I think that added to their talkativeness as well. I had a mother, Caroline Mooketsi (aka Mma-Thabo: mother of Thabo) who owned and ran a shop called Kagiso General Store and Butchery. I had lots of fun helping out at the store in the afternoons, socializing with the customers, and improving my Setswana. I often helped Mma-Thabo bake her prized scones that she sold in the shop. Mma-Thabo was the greatest host mother I could ask for. Always enthusiastic, wanting me to learn about Setswana culture and including me in everything she did. It was a refreshing change from life in Gabs. She always said, "Oh my dear Malebogo, you are so free. You are my daughter. You are free to do what ever you would like" (Malebogo is my Setswana name, which means "many thanks"). I also had two brothers, Thabo (24) and Thabiso (18), though Thabiso goes to college in Gabs and wasn't around. At first I though that Thabo was going to be super quiet, but as the week progressed I realized what a fun companion he was. It was interesting to hear his rebellious, anti-traditional culture take on life. My father owns a cattlepost and is a preacher. We went to church on Sunday for three plus hours, entirely in Setswana. Although we dressed in full length skirts and head scarves, we stuck out since we didn't have the traditional garb (oh, and we are white! The service was interesting, although it got really stuffy in the church. My father was nice, though not very talkative. There is a very interesting dynamic between children and they father. In traditional society, men are always served food on a silver platter first and treated like kings. It doesn't seem like there is a lot of emotional or intimate contact between husband and wife or husband and child.

I was shocked to see my house when we first arrived-- it was bigger than my home in Gabs! I had an entire section of the house to myself and their was a maid who came everyday to clean, do laundry (including mine!!!), and sweep the dirt. Kelsey, Alicia, and I came to the conclusion one day that their obsession with sweeping the dirt is kinda parallel to our obsession with cutting the grass (since they have sand/dirt instead of grass). It seems silly to sweep the sand/dirt outside when you are just going to step on it and mess it all up, but I guess grass grows right back when you cut it too, right?

My living experience was also far different from my friends. Kelsey had too deal with her 300 + pound mother peeing in a bucket in her room every night and her drunk host sister singing in the bathtub "I'm in love with a stripper.." and "I'm sorry Ms. Jackson, I am for REEEALL" Alicia had to deal with an ipod-stealing, computer breaking host sister and enough chickens to feed a nation. At least the worst I had to deal with was a goat head on my kitchen counter, and turkeys and cows in the yard to be slaughtered for the butchery. My house even had a grapefruit tree-- Kelsey and I made grapefruit juice one day for my mother and she absolutely loved it!

Instead of commuting to classes at UB like the rest of the CIEE girls, Kelsey, Alicia, and I worked at Mochudi Clinic II from 7:30 am - 4:30 pm everyday. Let me tell you, the Mochudi Clinic was a 180 degree change from Old Naledi. The biggest difference was the staff. For the most part, the nurses at the Mochudi Clinic were all very compassionate, hard working and good-natured people. Unlike the laziness I witnessed at Old Naledi, nurses at the Mochudi clinic cared about their patients and the welfare of the greater community. The following is a rather long excerpt from my Public Health Clinical Log that details my experience in the clinic. Enjoy:

I was impressed by how Mochudi Clinic actively involves the community in their health. The daily Morning Prayer services, health education talks, and frequent home-based care visits all contribute to the clinic’s positive image. The prayer services create a connection between healthcare provider and patient beyond the examination room, allowing for a more holistic clinic experience. For many, the Morning Prayer is an enjoyable experience and makes the clinic much more warm and welcoming. Patients, nurses, and cleaning staff are encouraged to read from the Bible and lead prayers. Although such prayer services could be potentially repellent to those of other religions, I think that the prayer session focuses on being more spiritual than religious. As such, I think that the daily morning prayers are a very positive way for Mochudi Clinic II to start the day.

Health education is a critical component in a villages’ plan for disease prevention and control. The health education officer at Mochudi Clinic II was particularly active and hospitable. He was involved in all wards of the clinic—from Home-Based Care to Child Welfare. By having a very visible presence in the clinic, the health education officer is able to teach the community about healthy living and disease prevention and control.

Under the guidance of the health education officer, Alicia, Kelsey, and I were able to devise and present a short lecture about HIV/AIDS transmission and prevention. After prayer service one morning, we spoke to the patients and the health education officer translated our words into Setswana. Although it was exciting to feel like we were giving back to the community, I think that mini-lectures like what we presented are not the most effective means of education. Given the staggeringly high prevalence of HIV in Botswana, the vast majority of the community knows about the dangers HIV/AIDS. The information we gave them is of critical importance, but was not new news to them. Instead of a one-way education system, I think health education at the clinic should engage the community members in discussion and critical exploration of ways to diminish epidemics like HIV/AIDS in the community. This would facilitate active learning and would answer the questions that the patients want answered. Also, it would allow patients to be more aware and get more involved in their own health.

Home-Based Care is one of the most attractive components of Mochudi Clinic II. Almost everyday, clinic staff goes in the ambulance to visit patients at their homes. Oftentimes we accompanied staff from Motswedi Community Rehabilitation Programme. Since its inception in 1992, Motswedi has been committed to providing rehabilitation and physical therapy to patients in the community as well as providing preschool and skills training for developmentally challenged children. The program gets half of its funding from the government and half from fundraising initiatives.

Throughout the week we visited more than a dozen different patients. We visited two elderly stroke patients three times throughout the week to check how rehabilitation exercises were improving their motor function. After listening to their complaints, we also were able to give suggestions on how to improve their situation. For instance, both patients complained of hard stool so we suggested eating lots of vegetables and fruits rather than having them take medicine that would give them diarrhea. We gave them positive encouragement and reminded them to do their exercises frequently. It was rewarding to see how thankful the patients’ families were for our presence and support.

We also visited several families with children with developmental disorders like cerebral palsy and hydrocephalous. HIV/AIDS, TB, Malaria, diabetes and heart disease get so much media attention that genetic and developmental disorders are often overlooked. However, according to the Motswedi physical therapists, developmental disorders are quite common in Mochudi. Just as we saw unmotivated patients in their homes, it was particularly sad to see unmotivated parents of children with such developmental disorders. Struggling with poverty and health issues of their own, parents become “lazy” and look like they are neglectful of their child’s health needs. However, from a more empathetic perspective, the parents are just as vulnerable as their children to pain and suffering. Counseling and support should be provided by the clinic, particularly for these mothers, to help eliminate stigmatization of developmental disorders and promote adherence to exercise regimens.

Some of the Home-Based Care patients we visited had more complicated situations. One family had four children, the youngest three of which had congenital developmental problems such as hydrocephalous and cerebral palsy. All had severely stunted growth. The mother of the children had taken Depo-Provera 150, an injected birth control hormone, after having her first child. Six years later, she had the three children with congenital problems. Depo-Provera 150 is banned in the United States because of its ill side effects, including sterility, irregular bleeding, decreased libido, depression, high blood pressure, excessive weight gain, breast tenderness, vaginal infections, hair loss, stomach pains, blurred vision, joint pain, growth of facial hair, acne, cramps, diarrhea, skin rash, tiredness, and swelling of limb (Goodman, 1985). In a country like Botswana where undernourishment is a problem, weight loss could be a serious health threat. Although genetics are undoubtedly implicated in these developmental disorders, I wonder whether it also could be linked to the Depo-Provera 150 injection. The Food and Drug Administration proposed that fetal exposure could cause birth defects when they presented their case against the drug’s approval in the US (Goodman, 1985). I’d like to investigate into the harmful side effects of Depo-Provera 150 and its implication on birth control methods in Botswana.

We also visited a man who was having problems adhering to his ARV medications. He told us an elaborate and quite believable story about how both of the muscles in his legs unexplainably atrophied in 2005. Since then, he has religiously been doing his leg exercises and has gone from bed rest to wheelchair to crutches. Despite this inspirational story, the man was getting sick because he wasn’t taking his ARVs. He thought they weren’t necessary because it only takes a few seconds to swallow pills. From his point of view, they could hardly have an effect on his health if they didn’t take any time to work. When we tried to explain to him otherwise, he got angry and defensive. He began to talk about being bewitched and going to the traditional healer for better care. His mom didn’t share the same beliefs about traditional healers and was fed up with his apparent ridiculousness. It was interesting to observe the clash between traditional and modern medicine. In the future, I think that the clinic should work cooperatively with traditional healers to promote HIV/AIDS prevention and safe health practices.

The Maternal Child Health room at Mochudi Clinic was a much more integral part of the clinic than in Old Naledi. The nurse was welcoming and compassionate. Women come to MCH for pre and postnatal checkups, family planning, and gynecological problems such as urinary tract infections and sexually transmitted diseases. Pregnant women must be HIV tested before the nurse can look at them. Prenatal checkups included measuring the size of the stomach to determine the baby’s length, listening to the fetal heartbeat, and palpating the belly to check for physical deformities. Younger pregnant women are given multivitamins and tsabothle rations to ensure their health throughout pregnancy. The first time a women comes in for a pregnancy checkup, the nurse does a full physical exam and cervical examination.

During my observation of the Maternal Child Health room I saw several interesting cases. I found it particularly interesting how the nurse treated a Zimbabwean pregnant woman who came to the clinic. She was demeaning to the Zimbabwean, scolding her for working to hard and failing to take proper care of her first baby that passed after living one month. From my observations, it seems as though Zimbabweans are looked down upon and stigmatized in Botswana. As healthcare providers, nurses at the clinic should act indiscriminately, treating all patients as equals. There was also an HIV positive nurse from Princess Marina that comes to Mochudi Clinic for confidentiality. Given the stigma surrounding HIV/AIDS, I understand why the nurse didn’t want to collect her ARVs from the dispensary at Princess Marina Hospital.

Another interesting case involved a woman who came to the clinic for the first time 22 weeks into her pregnancy. Upon cervical examination, the nurse found white discharge on the specula. The nurse lectured the woman on the importance of safe sex during pregnancy and prescribed her clotromidazole, a drug commonly used for treatment of Trichomoniasis. It was interesting to see the reality of a disease we learned about in parasitology class a few weeks ago! After the woman left the examination room, the nurse and I discussed the problem of condom use in Botswana. In her opinion, men were at fault in the problem since they don't want to wear condoms. They risk the spread of harmful STIs such as HIV and the possibility of pregnancy for their own sexual pleasure. Men play very little role in the pregnancy of their child. It’s frustrating to see countless women come to the clinic alone, with serious sexual health problems and pregnancy.

Other positive aspects of the clinic that I observed were the cleanliness and sanitation protocols. There was soap in every examination room and all of the bathrooms were equipped with toilet paper. I also think that the openness of the clinic allowed for better ventilation than at Old Naledi Clinic. The clinic also wrapped free packages of condoms in newspaper for patients to take inconspicuously. Given the stigmatization of condom use in Botswana, I think it was very clever of the clinic staff to promote condom use by giving them out so discreetly. Lastly, I thought the daily morning meetings to discuss news and the previous day’s proceedings were important to keeping the clinic staff united. These morning meetings are a short yet effective way to keep the Clinic nurses on the same page.

Despite the positive experiences I had, I felt that Mochudi Clinic could also be improved in several ways. The clinic consistently ran out of vaccinations and rations. This is a problem more of the Botswana government than the clinic, but is an issue detrimental to patients all the same. I was also surprised when the MCH nurse didn’t know how to use the pregnancy test a woman brought in. As a nurse specializing in gynecology and antenatal care, administering pregnancy tests should be a fairly common part of her job description. I was likewise surprised patients could get their prescriptions free at the dispensary, but women had to buy pregnancy tests from a chemist. This differentiation puts pregnancy in a negative light, incurring a financial penalty on the woman.

After lunch break, everything slowed down to a standstill at the clinic. When we didn’t go on home-based care visits, I felt as though there was no point in keeping the clinic open. Time after lunch should be better spent in completing paper work, devising health education seminars, going on home-based care visits and having meetings. On a separate note, I noticed that the clinic needs more napkins to provide patients in home-based care. At 180 pula per pack, most patients can’t afford these medical expenses. Although resources are in high demand, its unfair to selectively give out napkins. Either all patients should be given equal amounts or they should offer the napkins at a subsidized rate for everyone. Lastly, I think there needs to be a way to help severely disabled in Mochudi. There are many people who remain without aid because Motswedi doesn’t have the resources to take the severely handicapped under their belt. Thus, those who need help the most are left in the dark. Overall, I had a very enjoyable experience at Mochudi Clinic II and I thought it was interesting to see the differences and similarities to Old Naledi Clinic.

Over the second weekend, my mother took me to pick out fabric and have a traditional skirt made at a tailor (much cheaper than in Gabs). I also went to an English church with Thabo which was smaller but just as animated and evangelical as Bible Life Ministries in Gabs. I also got to visit Thabo's 2 month old son Setso! He actually didn't mention he had a son until the day I left. I found it particularly interesting how passionate he was about the problems he saw with Setswana culture. He complained time and again about how he never got to see his son because traditionally, infants aren't allowed to leave the house until they are 6 months old. Since he isn't married to the mother of Setso, he only gets to see his boy a few days a week. But the smile on Thabo's face when he was holding Setso was truly priceless!

So the Mochudi stay was huge success. I enjoyed every minute of it and undoubtedly will go back to visit the cattlepost (since we didn't have time for that) and to pick up my skirt! I look forward to seeing all of my family and neighbors, especially Mma-Thabo again!!